mylancer

Tuning a HKS 4AG Webber

2009-10-19T21:52:00.010+08:00

FOR SALE:AE86 Front clip

Racing clutch, LSD axle, front

adj susp, rear susp,rm6.5k

----------------------------

Tuning a HKS 4AG Webber

Owned by: Amat Pt Raja
Chasis: Toyota KE70
Model: Corolla GL
Year manufactured: 1982
Engine Modification: 4A-G Webber
Engine Upgrade: HKS 264/272 cam with 8.3mm lift, Oversize piston, E3 Alloy Radiator
Gearbox: K50 with 3A bellhousing
Rim: Works mesh 15"
Suspension: Cusco Hi-Lo adjustable (installed today 19th Oct)
Axle: Toyota Crown MS120
Diffrential: 4.6 full locked

Braking: 4 disc brake with drum e-brake
Bodywork: Ajib Wshop, Batu Pahat(012-7521237)
Painting: Ajib Wshop, Batu Pahat(012-7521237)

My Tuning history:
1. Fixed HKS 264/272 cam, can't get idle.
2. Fixed adjustable cam pulley, dialed intake and exhaust cam, good idling.
3. Low rpm very bad, I advanced ignition timing, so far so good..
4. High rpm need more fuel, meaning need Webber to do re-jetting.
5. Power? Fun but not as good as my PS SR20DE Tomei/HKS...he.he. but nice to hear it's Webber sound
6. Comparison:
On Webber engine, tuning your fueling is a bit dificult coz it will need a series of jetting kit to suit your engine needs but cost is cheaper compare to EFi tuning. The only hassle is to test a jetting one by one..hu..hu
On my PS SR20DE, I've a PS Fuel Enhancer II to do my fuel tuning just from my finger tip located on my dashboard and a good point is I can tune while driving, meaning that actual load is applied. A PS Air Fuel Analyzer is helping me to show for an optimum A/F ratio, while you probably need a wideband O2 gadget for Webber engine.

Toyota 3SGE RWD for RA60

2009-06-22T20:18:00.021+08:00

My RA60, a 3rd generation of Toyota Celica.

Donor car, Toyota Celica generation 6, ST202 .

Made for FWD Celica, a 3rd gen 3SGE is a 2000cc Toyota twin cam engine with 16 valves producing about 177hp on engine flywheel. Equiped with TVIS that optimizing efficient accelaration that produce almost similar result to VTC concept. A good advantage with it's shim located under a bucket gives no chance of " flying shim" which could lead to a broken rocker arm.

High compression piston with 10.0:1 ratio.Piston size is 86mm while stroke also 86mm gives square and said to be ideal size in engine technology until today.

Passengger's side engine mounting.

Driver's side engine mounting.

3SGE sitting on a Toyota AA63 crossmember

RWD intake manifold on 3SGE

A real 3S RWD almost there..

I've just bought a W58 gearbox

Oil spilled everywhere.

After cleaning job done

Mated with 2C belhousing

Top mount turbo manifold...

Installing Tomei 256 n HKS 264 Cam on SR20DE

2009-05-10T22:55:00.018+08:00

It's always my dream to have my sr20 equipped with hi-cam and yesterday was a big day where reality came through, a combination of Tomei and HKS cam work together to support a good improvement for my sr20.

Specs:

Intake Tomei Poncam 256, 11mm lift,

Exhaust HKS 264 Step 1, 10.5mm lift .

I'm still maintaining NCVS for intake as my original sr20de came with VTC which I believe doing good job for intake cam advance while before 5krpm and it was said to give good respond on low and midrange, and yes I am happy with that, it does! I'm using NS adjustable cam pulley for exhaust cam sourced locally, not only cheap but it has very good engineering work quality. I have asked my cifu whether the 2 diffrent cam can work together, his answer is yes but Tomei has it's own quality for being offset cam while HKS only a parallel cam.

Fixing cam method

1. Remove battery terminal and remove rocker cover.

2.Find TDC for piston no.1 and make sure 2nd mark on the crankshaft pulley. 1st cam lobes must be facing apart from each other.

3. Remove hydraulic fan.

4. Remove chain tensioner.

5. Remove distributor, look at the timing mark, a small dot on top.

6. Loosen cam holder using FSM method.

7. Replace cam.

8. Tighten cam holders, using FSM spec.

9. Check for timing mark, each mark on the camshaft pulley are separated by 20 chain.

10. Install chain tensioner.

11. Install distributor, dot on top.

12. Turn crankshaft clockwise as many as you can to check on timing mark.

13. Fix rocker cover and fan.

14. Install battery.

15. Ready to start.

note: FSM is a Factory Service Manual from Nissan.

Old cam ,ready to be taken out.

Tomei 256, HKS 264 and NS adjustable cam pulley.

Old cam, didn't know that exh cam is same with DET ones .

I'm selling if you are interested. rM100 each.

Now, after installing a racing cam into SR20DE, a possible question you want to ask would be "what is the outcome?"

Ok, I tell you the real thing happened, I started the car, sound like blop,blop,blop but can't hold it's idling, I tried to play with my PS Fuel Enhancer II which takes control of my stock ECU mapping but still can't. When I checked my engine bay, found that MAF connector not properly inserted. I fixed that and next was doing my tuning job, weak vacuum coz engine easily stop, the respond on 2nd gear is hard to bring the rpm from 1k to 2k, but once it in 2k and up, it will never stop and I noticed that higher rpm and above looks too much lean,no display light visible, and not only that, my PS Air Fuel Ratio indicator has never shown rich opposed to the stock cam, it's much richer. p>

Second round of tuning is to adjust it accelaration which is very hard to drive from low rpm. We use a lot of 2nd gear while coming out from 90 degrees corner or after passing by a bumper in a housing area. After getting right on the accelaration on 1-2k rpm, now I can drive it like normal stock car but if you press harder especially on higher speed, engine starting to have a knocking sound. it shows that wrong timing on the cam. At this point, engine power is really bad. This test was on a neutral exhaust cam(haven't dialled), which may need exh cam advancing?

Theory:

Advancing exh Cam cause weak on low n mid rpm but powerful on higher rpm

Retarding exh cam can cause weak top end but good on mid rpm

to be continued....

amirjames store

2008-08-29T23:41:00.000+08:00

PS POWERSPORTS

AIR-FUEL CONTROL

Air-Fuel Enhancer -I
PN: AFE-807
more info
Created for non-extreme driver that expecting slightly adjustment on it's mapping for up to 30% power increase.
RM 880.00
click here to BUY

Air-Fuel Enhancer – II (most recommended to buy)

PN: AFE-808
more info
Made for real automotive enthusiasts that support bigger changes on his engine such as bigger turbo,racing cam, bigger injector, ported and polished engine head and other extreme modification. e.g. If you have a package like 550cc injectors, Z32 MAF , GT2871R and Front Mount Intercooler on any SR20DE/DET, you will need only an original ECU and Fuel Enhancer II to fine tune your engine up to just like an original standard idling, no lag, no misfire but more powerful! Now, 400hp in your hand!!. Unlike those day you will need a special ECU with double chip that tuned by unknown Japs tuner with the parts listed above then only can get the right tuning but it still has disadvantage because you cannot adjust the mapping as your preference and also it will subject to a different climate between thier country and yours. With Air Fuel Enhancer II, you can do it yourself...you are the tuner and if done with proper supporting parts and tuning knowledge, you can make big power up to 1000hp++.
Suggested to use with Air-Fuel Mixture Analyzer for the best result.

e.g of a succesful application
This is a SR20DE turbocharged project that suprisingly has more power than it's original DET model,estimated 300hp on wheel with only 0.7 boost pressure. It's only using a Air Fuel Enhancer II to control it's low rpm, medium rpm and high rpm mapping since turbocharging needs bigger injector, for this case Sard 850cc was installed and actually too much but the owner aim not just 300hp but more.
Now, why are you waiting?....get your engine a
1.new t3/t4(scroll down to see pic ) ,
2.a bigger injector
3.and fuel enhancer II to show your madness on the road.......oops, show your talent at Sepang track!

RM1700.00 --->NOW ONLY RM1580.00
(promotion price while stock last)

click here to BUY

RM1580 for SR20/RB20/RB25

Air-Sensor Converter
PN: ASC-909(T) rm2860

PN: ASC-909(NA) rm1880

The elimination of Air Flow Sensor(MAF) where 3bar Map sensor takes place. Get rid of your MAF and get 100% of your engine power.

RM1880

click here to BUY

DE-/LIMITER

Air-Flow Resetter
PN: AFR-15 RM600
click here to BUY

Boost-Cut Eliminator

PN: BCE-01
RM480.00

click here to BUY

Speed De-/Limiter
Details: Completely remove your 180km/h speed cut for all car, applicable for both manual or auto gearbox.
PN: SD-10
RM360.00
click here to BUY

EGO Signal Trimmer Type 3, RM550.00

MONITOR

Peak Air-Fuel Mixture Analyzer

This is a useful gadget to display an accurate signal about your air-fuel ratio. It will tell you whether your engine having rich(your going slower with rich) or lean(too lean will destroy your engine). You will need a Air Fuel Enhancer II, so you are able to tune your engine at the highest level of operation, in terms of power and fuel economy.
RM750.00
PN: PAF-5

click here to BUY

Spark Knock Alert
PN: SKA-3
click here to BUY

Max Rev. Alert
PN: MRA-2
click here to BUY

SUB-INJECTION CONTROL

Sub-Fuel Injection Controller – II
PN: SIC-202[II]

RM2200
click here to BUY

VALVE CONTROL

V-Tec Controller
PN: VTC- 20
RM760.00
click here to BUY

Digital Boost Controller II(5-45psi) ,PN:DTB-303[II] RM 1550

Digital Dump-Valve Controller – Solenoid Type
PN: DVC-25

Brisk Dump Valve - Mechanical Type
PN: BDV-25
RM580.00

BOV Adaptor RM80.00

click here to BUY

FUEL PUMP Control

RM1500.00
Fuel Flow Stabilizer
PN: FFS-313[C]
click here to BUY

IGNITION Control

Brisk Spark Amplifier - II
PN: BSA-707[II]

RM700

click here to BUY

Brisk Spark Energizer II
PN: BSE-709
RM1180

Brisk Spark Plug
PN: BSP-707

RM58/pc
click here to BUY

Impulse Tach. Adaptor
PN: ICA-707
click here to BUY

Spark Knock Eliminator
PN: SKE-707
click here to BUY

EZY Launch Control EZ-705

RM1190

Rocker Arm Stopper(RAS)

Details: On high rpm, sr20 rocker arm is the weakest part and tend to break, it already happened many times all over the world that's why we came up with this Rocker Arm Stopper to avoid breaking your own engine. Don't let it happen to your lovely engine, install our RAS now.
RM480.00

For 180sx/s13/s14/15

SR20DE/DET
click here to BUY

PS Battery Power Stabler
RM285.00

Grounding Kit RM85.00

click here to BUY

More performance parts

New Top mount Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold for SR20DET RM950.00

New Low mount(std mount) Stainless Steel manifold for SR20DET RM950.00

New Intercoolers any size, price start from RM600 .00

New T3/T4 Turbocharger support 500hp only RM1850.00

send payment to paypal account mylancer@streamyx.com

You can make payment direct to my MBB account(Malaysia) :1141-755-756-25

Note: Please email for international shipping cost.

Please check parts availability before ordering.

Tel: +6012-8393893(AmirJames)

All prices are in Ringgit Malaysia.

Click here for Exchange Rates

My SR20DE Running Rich?

2008-04-11T00:09:00.013+08:00

5th April 2007

My site is worth $321.2.
How much is yours worth?

I suspected my SR20DE from my SR70(a combination of KE70 and SR20) is running very rich coz everytime I pour RM20 of fuel, estimated about 10 litres of RON 92 petrol, it will only last for less than 50km normal city drive.

Firstly, I noticed that my exhaust outlet can has a thick of carbon, see pic below.

Secondly, when doing an inspection on a spark plug, it was clear that it was fully covered by a carbon, see pics below.

Now it is very clear that with this 3 factors
1. poor fuel economy,

2.dirty exhaust

3.and a thick carbon on spark plugs

definately concludes that air fuel ratio is in 'rich' region, in other words, too much fuel supply on combustion chamber which is known to restrict it full performance. It will not give you maximum output of your engine power, but car is much slower on its accelaration and will lead to a some bad things for the engine components such as plugs, valve , combustion chamber surface and exhaust outlet.
NOTE: Rich mixture is describe as too much petrol.
Lean mixture is describe as less petrol.

But a question arise here, do you think rich condition happen all the way from idling until redline of the rpm?or just on high rpm(5000 and above) or may be medium rpm(3000-5000) or low rpm(2000-3000)?

To answer this question, we need an A/F ratio analyzer to display for our eyes too see which range of rpm is affected.FYI any brand will do but I will be getting a Peak Air-Fuel Ratio Analyzer from PS Powersport. It will show us a everything about rich and lean mixture and from there we can decide where to start on the troubleshooting. Well, this item also very helpful for engine tuning., as my friend has been using it together with PS Fuel Enhancer II to tune his modded 1jz-gte and it helped him to advance to the final stage of Tawau Drag last 2 years with only using stock ECU, he then secured 2nd place of 2-wheel Turbo category in the competition.

Finally a PS Peak Air-Fuel Ratio analzyer is installed. I managed to fix it into the instrument cluster to avoid from stolen. Now I am ready to give my data on how my ecu perform, it's as simple as RICH and LEAN.

What do you know about rich and lean?

It is about Air/Fuel Ratio tuning: Rich v. Lean, why lean makes more power but is more dangerous? When discussing engine tuning the 'Air/Fuel Ratio' (AFR) is one of the main topics. Proper AFR calibration is critical to performance and durability of the engine and it's components. The AFR defines the ratio of the amount of air consumed by the engine compared to the amount of fuel.
A 'Stoichiometric' AFR has the correct amount of air and fuel to produce a chemically complete combustion event. For gasoline engines, the stoichiometric , A/F ratio is 14.7:1, which means 14.7 parts of air to one part of fuel. The stoichiometric AFR depends on fuel type-- for alcohol it is 6.4:1 and 14.5:1 for diesel.
So what is meant by a rich or lean AFR? A lower AFR number contains less air than the 14.7:1 stoichiometric AFR, therefore it is a richer mixture. Conversely, a higher AFR number contains more air and therefore it is a leaner mixture.
For Example:
15.0:1 = Lean
14.7:1 = Stoichiometric
13.0:1 = Rich
Leaner AFR results in higher temperatures as the mixture is combusted. Generally, normally-aspirated spark-ignition (SI) gasoline engines produce maximum power just slightly rich of stoichiometric. However, in practice it is kept between 12:1 and 13:1 in order to keep exhaust gas temperatures in check and to account for variances in fuel quality. This is a realistic full-load AFR on a normally-aspirated engine but can be dangerously lean with a highly-boosted engine.
Let's take a closer look. As the air-fuel mixture is ignited by the spark plug, a flame front propagates from the spark plug. The now-burning mixture raises the cylinder pressure and temperature, peaking at some point in the combustion process.
The turbocharger increases the density of the air resulting in a denser mixture. The denser mixture raises the peak cylinder pressure, therefore increasing the probability of knock. As the AFR is leaned out, the temperature of the burning gases increases, which also increases the probability of knock. This is why it is imperative to run richer AFR on a boosted engine at full load. Doing so will reduce the likelihood of knock, and will also keep temperatures under control.
There are actually three ways to reduce the probability of knock at full load on a turbocharged engine:
reduce boost,
adjust the AFR to richer mixture, use PS Fuel Enhancer II
and retard ignition timing. use PS ignition timing kit.
These three parameters need to be optimized together to yield the highest reliable power.

to be continued

My site is worth $321.2.
How much is yours worth?

Drift Car Is born(SR70)

2007-06-08T00:01:00.014+08:00

Warning: Turbo charging or any other vehicle modifications can result in personal injury, severe engine damage, or vehicle damage if not done properly. Please use this web page as a guide only. I do not and will not assume any responsibility for damage that may occur to you, your car, or anything else.

Cranked my SR20 VTC on KE70(become SR70) yesterday and it won't start!!!!

So what do you do when you're about finishing your engine transplant then it failed to start?

1.Check your spark plug, pull it and place the electrode side near to ground or engine body,remove your fuel pump fuse and crank your engine. You need to see a strong or bright spark or else change to a new spark plug.

2. If method no.1 does not spark at all, check your

a. Coil.It should be located inside your distributor or outside. For some engine like SR20DET, it will consist of igniter(size of 2inches X 2inches) black box and igniter pack on top of your rocker cover. How to check? Damn good question if you have this in your mind!! Ans. is use Multi meter, if you still not sure, please learn from Electrical or Electronic School.

b. 12v power supply and relay related to your ignition wiring.

3.Fuel pressure? You must get about 2.5 up to 3 bars in order to get the engine started. Lower than this could be fuel pump faulty or your fuel regulator give way. Change the necessary parts if you have tested it faulty.

Iridium plugs claimed to last about 100k km drive.

Shining Intake plenum after cleaning with some Brasso.

Back to my SR70, I've done the troubleshooting and it was the fuel pump that gave way. Replaced it with used Bosch and my SR70 can be started perfectly. Next is to fix a clutch, brakes front seat before going for body repair.
I won't write how I did the engine transplant as I assume most of us know or our mechanic knows how to install a better engine into your engine bay. Wiring work is relatively difficult than the engine work and please consult your certified technician if you are not sure. For those who knows the basic of automotive wiring, make sure you are feeding your Ignition coil, ECU, VTC, MAFS,throttle sensor, O2 sensor, injector and fuel pump with battery power. Use designated or appropriate fuse on each line of supply.

1st of July 2007

Blue top........I wanted like Tomei blue but this is the result, hmmm....I don't mind coz it's still a blue concept like my SR20DET on mylancer.

Polished intake and bluish SR20

I've just finished a wiring work for headlamp, turn,tail,reverse and column lights today. It was not an easy task coz suprisingly all the wiring not working at all even after plugging it's original socket and plug. My job here delayed at least 3 days. For those who are looking for 74's TE/KE diagram, just click below but it is not really an exact diagram for KE70, but may be can be used as a reference.

courtesy from bigflea.com

SPECS OF SR70

MY SR70 is a projected to be a learning drift car. You know that, not to be a good looking car but just enough if it can be driven sideways.......
Body Toyota KE70 1982
Engine Nissan S14 SR20DE
Gearbox Nissan S14 SR20DE Manual
ECU Stock S14
Dashboard KE70 or maybe later use my Carina dash which is more expensive and attractive.
Front Disc Brakes are from Toyota GX60 and now with RA60 brakes
Lower Arm: An extended length of TT141 arms
Stabilizer Bar: Toyota TT141
Rear Disk Brakes are from Toyota Hilux
Rear Axle are from Toyota Hilux Full Lock with ratio 4.88 (8X39)
Fuel Pump Bosch External
Spark Plug: NGK Iridium BKR6EIX
Exhaust Extractor: FGK Japan Stainless Steel (sold n now stock)
Exhaust: OEM Honda Vtec EK9
Wheels: Taken from Toyota RA60 now with 5 lugs wheels from Crown 112R
Clutch: Stock, next will be an Exedy Hyper Single 6 Puck-Disc
Suspension: Front-KYB New SR Catridge with RX7 FC Tanabe sport spring,
Rear-Shocks and spring from KYB New SR dedicated for RWD Toyota cars.

Newly added was a oil relocater kit and with this item, I can now read an oil pressure via my oil pres. gauge.

This pic was taken while otw to Fraser Hill with family members during 2008 CNY holiday. Don't be suprise, we have total 4 units of this kind of car at home. Why? ......eh..eh...ppl say this car can Drift ooh...

View at Fraser Hill

Drifting learner stories STARTED: (updated 17 Feb 2008)
1st day- I took a 5 minutes to make so-call drifting and my car behave like a Bull in Mexico. My friend says that my SR70 can't be drifted due to not enuff -ve camber and +ve caster. Well I went back and managed to fix it from camber -0.5 to -2.0 and caster +1.0 to 2.5
2nd day- One week later, I came back with the rite camber and caster, suprisingly it could go sideway but it's just turn like an helicopter. OMG...drifting is not easy! Futhemore my alternator not doing any charging job, causing a problem to start the engine. The next day I found that I lost a nut screw on the alternator ! Yes...rev..rev..rev...lost screw one by one!
3rd day- I felt very confident coz I was able to do a small circle but not for long, my clutch gave way coz it had burnt smell and I think it was the biggest joke in my drifting story so far, you know why? I have to spend 1 whole day on the next day just to change a clutch. SR70 needs to bring down crosmember, engine and gearbox for this job. Well it's a modded car, Nissan married to Toyota. WTf......
4th day-supposed to be 4th week on the drifting field but my car has no clutch.I've been talking around to my drifter friends and they said the stock clutch cannot cope up with drifting activity since it requires high torque and power all the time and they suggested an Ogura or OS Giken sets to be the best clucth for this sports. The mentioned parts are extremely expensive forcing me look for cheap alternative.I sourced for an Exedy Hyper Single from junkyard shop for rm450.00 but it needs rebuild.
4th day(real)- I came back to the drifting training with stock clutch, while the Exedy sets was sent for rebuild. It was raining and pretty easy to understeer, I just did my donut practise but now in bigger circle. Wow! Right hand side was OK but LHD a bit difficult, I dunno why......OK.. just keep in my mind........PRACTICE MAKE(S) PERFERCT. Next will be drift the no.*8*.....
Updated 24th February 2008
5th day-I forget about no *8* coz when I reached at the drifting field, a orange colour cones was arranged for a more pro drifter,a small zig zag track. Suprisingly I could drift like other drifter but mos of it only half lap, I did one or two laps without overturned for the 1hr practise. I will be back next Saturday night with harder suspension, and let's see what is the difference between super soft and hard suspension. Planning to fix all 4 New SR absorbers with 9kg/mm spring (front) and 7kg/mm at the back.

updated March 09, 2008

5 lugs.....he.he. oem crown rim in front.

6th day-Too many drifter came that night, I had difficulty to do practice coz they are leaving no space for beginer like me.Once I have got my chance, my rear axle gave way. I have no choice other than changing my rear axle to Crown 110 complete axle. It's come with disk brakes full lock welded by the previous owner. Since it has 5 lugs, I took out my rims from my store for the rear and the front also replaced by 180sx brakes and tien coilover. So I have 5 lugs all round.

7th day- Nothing much for today but gain something abt stability coz all suspension are stiffer now. Tried to drift using 2nd gear but always turning like clock!

updated April 05, 2008
8th day- So long never came to the drifting scene, now only I know actually to initiate simple drift while I am on 2 gear where to turn a steering a little sudden pull then when car have initiated it's slide turn back the steering all the way until it's maximum angle. I had a very good practice to keep my car slide on C shape.

D1 drifter, Kawabata on his 180sx had a nice final battle with Kuroi on his S13. I took this pic when watching Asian /Asia Pcfk Toyo Drift Competition held in Subang, Malaysia on the 6th of April 2008. I'm speechless with thier skill and how fast they drifting, and our local drifter, Along also did very good on his quarter final round which held Kuroi for 5 times run( 4 times sudden death) but lost in very small point diffrence.

This is Along on his RB26 powered machine.

updated April 12, 2008
9th day- Improved drifting on bigger C shape and then at the end I've got a very narrow u-turn, followed by S shape then continue on C shape again. So I think that I'm able to drift my car just after my lesson 9 with the help from a few friends that initiated my hobby as a drifter. Wow! I am so happy now to become a beginner drifter..n from now on, I will not update my drift story here but perhaps in another advance topic.
Thank you for reading.
DRIFTING LEARNER STORY ENDED. LOL

Other Similar project

My bro's KE70 with s13 SR20DE in Batu Pahat, Johor. He owns a workshop in Pt Raja.

This one is more similar to my project, a S14 SR20DE on KE70 also a shop owner in Batu Pahat, Johor, Malaysia. He's said to be a top drifter in his district.

FUEL SAVING DEVICE 20cents/km

2007-05-03T02:51:00.000+08:00

Warning: Turbo charging or any other vehicle modifications can result in personal injury, severe engine damage, or vehicle damage if not done properly. Please use this web page as a guide only. I do not and will not assume any responsibility for damage that may occur to you, your car, or anything else.

It's been a long time I didn't write here on my own blog, everyday is my busy day, working, family, hobby and a lot more things to do. One thing came across into my mind is the cost of petrol my car consume everyday. It is really bad for my pocket especially for a low income ppl like me, because all my old cars has minimum 2.0l engine. I have tested 3 months each and it was tested a normal town driving or just like an old man driving behaviour.

1. My Lancersr20 is consuming 10 liters(RM20) of petrol for a 50-60km rides. Is it because of 3" exh piping?!!!
2. My Toyota Celica 2.0 Carb will drink about the same, 10 liters(RM20) of petrol for a 50-60km.
3. I think my Crown 1Jzgte is more to fuel saver but seldom driving it due to a bad rusted body condition.
4. My Isuzu Rodeo(now own my bro ) is the big winner here coz Diesel is cheaper and it just like Kancil fuel consumption.
5. SR70(mix blood of KE70 and S14 SR20DE) work is still in the last stage and unable to give comment about fuel consumption.

But on Lancersr20, I found something good!! Firstly I have got a device that really make your petrol flowing very slow, a big round and strong Magnet. It's taken from Japanese front cut but when I installed into my main fuel hose, I felt like every time I am speeding over 120km/h, it will act like a fuel cut! That is a fuel saver but everytime you want to go higher speed, you will need to open your bonnet to remove it. Quite difficult! and not practical, so this device not that convinient for me and my car.

Seriously, I didn't realise that the PS Fuel Enhancer II which is installed into my car is a good fuel saver. In my thinking, this gadget is just for racing purpose only, but I was wrong, I played with the second button and it's work!, remember it has only 5 buttons or known as knob. The second knob is a accelarator response, which tunes your accelarator pedal from lazy to fast response. Now, what is lazy response? I am so kind, I will let you know here, don't worry! Yeah it's something that your car lazy to move even if your acc pedal is floored on lower gear, let's say 2nd gear. Why is it lazy....coz it has a lot of petrol into your combustion chamber, means rich of petrol. What you can do about it? Adjust your 2nd knob anti-clockwise until you get faster response. If you turn more, you will find it like not enough petrol, something like fuel you has empty tank! Ppl say LEAN! This is the point that you must note, so that you must turn back the 2nd knob to clockwise about 1 degree.
So now, my result on Lancersr20 is
For 10 liters(rm20) of petrol RON92, I can travel to 90-100km, which is covering my daily travelling to my customer offices. In more details, now only 20 cents per km compare to 30 cents per km at the beginning. Now I can enjoy buying cheaper petrol i.e RM20 per day. I can even do more cheaper by turning the 2nd knob more beyond the limit but I guess I will make the combustion chamber too lean which will lead to detonation and damaging it's piston or spark plug.
So on normal driving feel, and being a richman, just turn back the 2nd knob to it's original position, somewhere in the middle and your car can run 30cents per km. Remember, the Fuel Enhancer II is placed inside your car, somewhere within your reach so that it is easier to do an adjustment. Unlike the digital device, It's pretty easy here coz you just don't need to look at it, just turn the knob! You will be there!!

So, what happen to the rest of the knob?Ok,ok! here is my answer....
1. 1st knob is to tune your idling. You can make your idling to 500,or 800 or maybe 1200, just play with it.
2. 2nd knob, already explained as the above story.
3. 3rd knob is a fine tuning for low rpm. You can set you low rpm range, i.e 2000-3000rpm.
4. 4th knob is a fine tuning for mid rpm. You can set you mid rpm range, let's say 3000-5000rpm.
5. 5th knob is a fine tuning for high rpm, let's say 5000 and above.

3rd,4th and 5th knob is used to tune original mapping curve. Let's say you want make your top end in rich condition,so turn the 5th knob to clockwise, may be 1 degree or 5 deg, depends on your engine load, or if you want to see a flame come out from your exhaust, simply turn the knob on high rev and let other people come to tell you that your car is on FIRE!!

Thanks God. It saves my money a lot.

Note: PS Fuel Enhancer II is not design for carburator vehicle and it may also differ for 4cly and 6cly engine.

Ooops.......this rim is for SALE

rim16 with 9 hole,

suitable for 4 lugs PCD 114 and also 5 lugs 114

Front offset +31 with 7 JJ

Rear offset +31 with 8 JJ

Comes with 80% thread tyres 225 (rear) and 205 (front)

Made in Japan

brand is sg. like Payton Palace...can't really remember

No crack.

Rear Rim

Front Rim

ABANDONED BMW 732

2007-02-02T10:07:00.000+08:00

s

This project is for my bro-in-law but due to some problem, it has been lying about 1 year with 50% work done. It may be look simple for a BMW to accept a 1JZGTE from a Supra MA70 but this conversion has a lot things to do especially it's braking system and steering system.

It took me 3 days to make it alive, I managed to start the engine after encountered engine wiring left by my friend with some not connected and some wrongly connected. So my 3 days balik kampung(back to hometown) to Batu Pahat Johor was gone but meaningful.

1st attempt: put in a battery and crank
Result:no sound at all

2nd attempt: alternator wired with battery ,tank inspection, installed fuel pump,supply and return lines and crank
Result: It can be cranked but can't start.

3rd attempt:wired whole system including ecu and fuel pump.
Result: Not fired, ECU has false code 12 which means no ignition due to bad crank angle sensor.

How to read fault code:
Open small diagnostic box near fuses box, jump TE1 and E1 by using a 5cm long wire. Turn key to ign and count the codes from engine check light.

example 1 code
21 flash flash... flash
or
34flash flash flash... flash flash flash flash

If 2 codes stored (one after another)
14 & 52flash...flash flash flash flash............. flash flash flash flash flash... flash flash

4th attempt: After fixing crank angle sensor then only got fired.
Result: Engine fired...Whoooah!

A lot more things to do such as body wiring, intercooler piping,clutch system,braking and propeler shaft.

Reference: Toyota Fault Codes.

11
ECU(+B)

Diagnosis
Momentary interruption in power supply to ECU.
Trouble Area
Ignition switch circuit
Ignition switch
Main relay circuit
Main relay
ECU

12
RPM Signal

Diagnosis
No "NE" or "G" signal to ECU within 2 seconds after engine has been cranked.
Trouble Area
Distributor, or CPS, circuit
Distributor or CPS
Starter signal circuit
ECU

13
RPM Signal

Diagnosis
No "NE" signal to ECU when engine speed is about 1,000 RPM.
Trouble Area
Distributor, or CPS, circuit
Distributor or CPS
ECU

14
Ignition Signal

Diagnosis
No "IGF" signal to ECU "A" times in succession.A = 6-8 (7M-GE)A= 3 (7M-GTE)
Trouble Area
Igniter and ignition coil circuit
Igniter and ignition coil
ECU

21
Oxygen Sensor Signal

Diagnosis
Detection of oxygen sensor deterioration.
Trouble Area
Oxygen sensor circuit
Oxygen sensor
ECU

22
Water Temp Sensor Signal

Diagnosis
Open or short circuit in water temp sensor signal (THW).
Trouble Area
Water temp sensor circuit
Water temp sensor
ECU

24
Intake air Temp Sensor Signal

Diagnosis
Open or short circuit in intake air temp sensor signal (THA).
Trouble Area
Intake air temp sensor circuit
Intake air temp sensor
ECU

25
Air-Fuel Ratio Lean Malfunction

Diagnosis
When air-fuel ratio feedback compensation value or adaptive control value continues at the upper(lean) or lower(rich) limit renewed for a certain period of time.
When air-fuel ration feedback compensation value or adaptive control value feedback frequency is abnormally high during feedback condition.
When marked variation is detected in engine revolutions for each cylinder during idle switch on and feedback condition.
Trouble Area
Injector circuit
Injector
Fuel line pressure
Air flow meter
Air intake system
Oxygen sensor circuit
Oxygen sensor
Ignition system
Water temp sensor
ECU

26
Air-Fuel Ratio Rich Malfunction

Diagnosis
When air-fuel ratio feedback compensation value or adaptive control value continues at the upper(lean) or lower(rich) limit renewed for a certain period of time.
When air-fuel ration feedback compensation value or adaptive control value feedback frequency is abnormally high during feedback condition.
When marked variation is detected in engine revolutions for each cylinder during idle switch on and feedback condition.
Trouble Area
Injector circuit
Injector
Fuel line pressure
Air flow meter
Cold start injector
Oxygen sensor circuit
Oxygen sensor
Water temp sensor
ECU

27
Sub-Oxygen Sensor Signal or Sensor Heater

Diagnosis(Sub-Oxygen Sensor Signal)
Open or short circuit in sub-oxygen sensor signal (OX2).
Trouble Area
Sub-oxygen sensor circuit
Sub-oxygen sensor
ECU

Diagnosis(Sub-Oxygen Sensor Heater)
Open or short circuit in sub-oxygen sensor heater (HT).
Trouble Area
Sub-oxygen sensor heater circuit
Sub-oxygen sensor heater
ECU

31
Air Flow Meter Signal

Diagnosis
(7M-GE) Open circuit in VC signal or short circuit between VS and E2 when idle contacts are closed.
(7M-GTE) Open or short circuit in air flow meter signal.
Trouble Area
Air flow meter circuit
Air flow meter
ECU

32
Air Flow Meter Signal(7M-GE)HAC Sensor Signal(7M-GTE)

Diagnosis(Air Flow Meter Signal(7M-GE))
Open circuit in E2 or short circuit between VC and VS.
Trouble Area
Air flow meter circuit
Air flow meter
ECU

Diagnosis(HAC Sensor Signal(7M-GTE))
Open circuit or short circuit in HAC sensor signal.
Trouble Area
ECU

34
Turbocharger Pressure

Diagnosis
The turbocharger pressure is abnormal.
Trouble Area
Turbocharger
Air flow meter
ECU
Intercooler system

41
Throttle Position Sensor Signal

Diagnosis
Open or short circuit in throttle position sensor signal.
Trouble Area
Throttle position sensor circuit
Throttle position sensor
ECU

42
Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal

Diagnosis
No "SPD" signal to ECU for 8 seconds when engine speed is between 2,500RPM and 4,500RPM (7M-GE) or 4,000RPM (7M-GTE) and coolant temp is below 80°C(176°F) and neutral start switch is off.
Trouble Area
Vehicle speed sensor circuit
Vehicle speed sensor
ECU

43
Starter Signal

Diagnosis
No "STA" signal to ECU until engine speed reaches 800RPM with vehicle not moving.
Trouble Area
Ignition switch circuit.
Ignition switch
ECU

51
Switch Signal

Diagnosis
No "IDL" signal, "NSW" signal or "A/C" signal to ECU, during diagnosis check.
Trouble Area
A/C switch circuit
A/C switch
A/C amplifier
Throttle position sensor circuit
Throttle position sensor
ECU

52
Knock Sensor Signal

Diagnosis
Open or short circuit in knock sensor signal.
Trouble Area
Knock sensor circuit
Knock sensor
ECU

53
Knock Control Signal in ECU

Diagnosis
Knock control program faulty.
Trouble Area
ECU

71
EGR System Malfunction

Diagnosis
EGR gas temp below predetermined level during EGR operation.
Open circuit in EGR gas temp sensor signal (THG).
Trouble Area
EGR system (EGR valve, EGR hose etc.)
EGR gas temp sensor circuit
EGR gas temp sensor
VSV for EGR circuit
VSV for EGR
ECU

BOTAK'S CHARMANT 4AGE

2007-01-15T07:29:00.000+08:00

My friend ,Botak has found that his 4age engine in his car is too weak and can't deliver good horsepower for any drift or track application. He don't want to wait too long,as he grabbed a Toda 264/272 from Andysiam(drift.com.my) for almost RM2k. The Toda combo has adjustable pulley, makes tuning job easier. For this upgrade you will see a significant increase of horsepower that need for fuel delivery upgrade too. He opted for larger injector taken from Toyota Levin AE101SC, which has 365cc/min. To tune the new added things in that system, we install a PS Fuel Enhancer for fuel map correction. It has 5 knob that makes the job easier.
This car is a Daihatsu Charmant and it has some identical chasis with Toyota Levin AE86 and older car like Corolla KE70. This will allow you to use many parts from AE86 as direct replacement.

Now he is enjoying 30% increase of horsepower which estimated 15% gain from the Toda cam and 15% from the PS Fuel Enhancer. He also really excited for the powerband generated on 3rd gear onwards with easy tuning on the PS Fuel Enhancer.

Botak's Charmant Spec

Engine: Redtop 4age from Levin AE92 ,engine is reworked to match for RWD configuration since it is built for FWD car.
Intake: Stock AE86 intake manifold with TVIS
Exhaust: Stock extractor and 2 inches piping
Cam: Toda 264/272 cam with 7.9mm lift

Cam Pulley: Custom made adjustable
ECU : Stock ECU with map sensor
Injector upgrade: Supercharger AE101 top feed 365cc/min, low impedence
Injector controller: PS Fuel Enhancer II from PS Powersports
Gearbox: T50 from AE86
Rear axle: Lancer A174 LSD
Brake: 4 disc brake
AE86 Crossmember
AE86 engine and gearbox mounting
AE86 Suspension
Mitsubishi Evo 3 Recaro seat.
Paint job: Ferrari red by Sara Autoworks, Jln Subang 5,USJ Subang
Bodykit: Custom made by Sara Autoworks,Jln Subang 5, USJ Subang
M3 Rear spoiler by Theva/Rajoo Fibre USJ19, Subang

Click here for comment or inquiry

UPGRADING SR20DET STAGE 1&2

2006-12-31T20:16:00.000+08:00

(this article is dedicated to sr20det lover ,kindly send your inquiry to mylancer@streamyx.com )
Warning: Turbo charging or any other vehicle modifications can result in personal injury, severe engine damage, or vehicle damage if not done properly. Please use this web page as a guide only. I do not and will not assume any responsibility for damage that may occur to you, your car, or anything else.

SR20DET,4G63T and 3SGTE has the world biggest potential platform to create extra horsepower for 2000cc motor.Upgrading them is quite simple and basically straight foward but you can be denied to get your hp goal if not tuned properly or by fixing wrong stuff. Now, how to minimize mistake on acheving your goal when making power for your motor. I see so many car enthusiast out there has taken wrong approach on making extra horses and I also was included!Damn it!! I was,OK. Well nothing wrong with that as we are born to learn and picking up the best as we can, but it can be simplified and forget the stupidness and go straight to the point. Build the power in style.

WHAT'S OUR MISTAKE
1.Lack of knowledge
2.Follow someone that has failed many times and not proven to be good
3.Influenced by a big company that can spend hell of big ammount of money on advertisment.

WHICH WAY TO GO?
1.Use performance device that you can handle easier,e.g. how easy tuning by only using a knob compare to a digital things that makes you sick but still can't get it right. Yes, you can drive and turn the knob for fine tuning. Believe me ,it can be done in a minute or even in a second.
2.Easy setup and no time wasted.
3.Power making is confirm and no money wasted on silly things.
4.Reliable and ready service after sales.

On this page I want to share my finding about modification done on SR20DET RWD which is found on 1990-2005 Nissan Silvia.Well, it can be a s13,s14 or s15,basically all the same motor,even though slightly upgrade work done by Nissan from s13 to current model s15

What I have got from my customer car is stock S15 SR20DET which has 6 speed gearbox with hp rated about 250hp. I did minimum work as the customer want to make use of original parts on his SR20DET means, no high cam,big turbo and most important is to retain it's driving feel by using stock ECU and factory wiring.
1. Enlarge air suction. This is done by relocating your MAF(also called Air Flow Sensor) to intercooler piping and create good breathing for your engine.I don't hide a secret on this,imagine 25-45% increase power if done succesfully.The new location of your MAF makes your system crazy because usually it did not sit on that IC piping. The velocity of air is now higher and give higher value of voltage reading to the ECU,thus gives more petrol injected.We call it black smoke! right?Why must do this crazy things?Ok,as you can see on the MAF,the hole where air going through is real small and this will restrict your car breathing.Now give your car chance for better nose,leave it open or more safely,use any good aftermarket air filter.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d65/lancersr20/motorsport/IMG_1142.jpg

2. Tune your new location of MAF by using PS Powersports Fuel Enhancer II.If you are asking me what is so special of this device?Yes PS Fuel Enhancer II is a device that can tune your system using simple 5 analog buttons and installed along your stock wiring and ECU.It does not disturb the originality of your system but gives maximum performance in term of power and fuel economy.

The PS. Air-Fuel Enhancer - II [AFE-II] is designed to enhance the air-fuel mixture ratio to the highly modified EFI system engines. It alters the air-fuel ratio by conditioning the air mass signals to the sophisticated fuel computer unit. It is a device, which is ideal for re-mapping of the engine fuel feed controls, especially when the ECU is not designed to handle a level higher than the original mixture requirement. It features a 50% -/+ mixture adjustment of the accelerator position – ACCEL I / II, which will be either at idle or at wide open throttle operating conditions; and an additional 25% -/+ LOW, MID & HIGH rev’ range adjustment for desired performance while the car is being driven.
This AFE-II device is useful for re-calibrating fuel curve in the even of the use of a different air-flow sensor, larger fuel injectors, ported head, cam modification and an increase of boost pressure or compression to existing engine at higher level of fuel metering.

3. I installed a PS Fuel Peak Analyzer(OPTIONAL) for the driver to see it's air fuel ratio. Although it is look simple but it really help you a lot as it can display a warning when your car going lean condition. Lean condition is a situation that less fuel on combustion chamber which can lead detonation and engine blown. PS has done good stuff for you by creating a high quality and accurate device but easy for end user to view and operate it. Great isn't? A week later we managed to install few other device from PS-Powersport.They are
a.PS Fuel Stabilizer
b.PS Electronic boost controller.
c. PS Rev alert.

The rest of the modification on this car was done by the owner such as, 3 inches piping,front mount intercooler,aftermarket suspension,Nismo short shifter,Defi meters set and PS Blow Off Valve.

Sorry for poor quality of audio.

Here is the result which makes him the most happiest S15 owner now!! he! he!

A good achievement done here for car no WHK **,as you can see on engine flywheel output is 333.2hp@7167rpm, while torque is 337Nm@6457rpm. Boost at 0.9bar.
Another stock s15(BJB****) with aftermarket airfilter and 3 inches piping installed data are included on the dyno sheet as comparison.It has 232hp and 312Nm on engine flywheel. Boost at 1.0 bar

UPGRADING SR20DET STAGE 2

Again another SR20DET from s15 but this time more bolt on performance part. This one is different car from the earlier mentioned S15,more aggresive owner that has kept his 400hp++ goal in his mind very long time. So we quoted him a set of Tomei 256/264 cams,adjustable cam pulley, a HKS GT2540,SS exhaust manifold and Tomei valve spring. To be continued..........

Latest Update:

As promised, here is another friend of mine in a 2nd stage but has difficulty on Haltech fine tuning. It's a S13 SR20DET with both int and exh HKS264 with T3/TO4R. He needs time for a good looking dyno though it is very close to 500hp.

I still want to show you guys how is a 2nd stage SR20DET with PS Powersports bolt on performance, unfortunately, the time hasn't come yet. Will work it for you guys.

Get your PS performance product HERE
If you have read this article and found it interesting or you want to know more about it,do not hesitate to contact me at mylancer@streamyx.com
or, if you found that it contain wrong information then please inform me as I am a small kid in this industry. Thank you.

CLASSIFIED 3

2006-10-30T14:20:00.000+08:00

NISSAN FJ20 Japs Stainless Steel Top Mount Turbo Manifold RM880.00

AA60 TOYOTA CARINA DASHBOARD RM380.00

SR20 OIL FILTER RELOCATER ADAPTOR KIT(ENGINE SIDE)-RM150.00
GALANT VR4 RADIATOR-RM150.00

GREDDY REBIC III-RM1140.00
3SGTE ST185 INJECTOR WITH RAIL RM380.00
HKS EXTRA INJECTOR ADAPTOR WITH 3 INJECTORS RM500.00
16" 2 PIECE TOM'S RIM 8JJ-2 UNITS FOR RM800.00

14" JILBA RACING OFFSET +6 WITH TYRE -2 UNITS FOR RM570.00

16" SSR FM 8.5JJ OFFSET -8 WITH TYRE-2 UNITS FOR RM1600.00

TRUST MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER RM550.00
RNN14 GTiR SR20DET PISTON, CON-ROD&BEARING-4PCS FOR RM1140.00
RNN14 CHAIN COVER AND OIL PUMP-RM380.00
RNN14 CRANK SHAFT-RM380.00
S14 HEAD(COMPLETE)-RM1520.00
S14 ENGINE BLOCK-RM380.00
JZZ30 SOARER JDM RADIATOR-RM380.00
JZZ30 SOARER JDM INTERCOOLER-RM380.00

STi EJ20 INJECTOR AND RAIL-RM380.00

3SGTE CELICA ST185 INJECTOR COMES WITH FUEL RAIL RM430.00
RSR INVIDIA SS EXHAUST 3" IN 4" OUT-RM570.00
NEW T70 6o TRIM SUPPORT 650hp-RM2888.00

256 TOMEI INTAKE CAM 11.5 LIFT FOR SR20DET S14&S15-RM888.00
MITSUBISHI A174 JDM 1800 GSR METER CLUSTER-RM380.00
MITSUBISHI A172 JDM 1600 LANCER METER CLUSTER -RM190.00
Z32 MAF SUPPORT UP TO 500hp-RM400.00
PS FUEL ENHANCER II- RM1780.00

PS AIR FLOW METER TO MAP CONVERTER-email for low price
PS Fuel Pump Power Stabilizer-email for low price
All PS products speed cut,AFM reseter,boost cut,xtra injector driver,etc....-email for pricing

EMAIL mylancer@streamyx.com FOR DETAILS

1978 Cressida

2006-07-01T11:13:00.000+08:00

Hafiz,he is the owner of this fully restored 1978 Toyota Cressida.
Toyota ORIGINAL...Cressida.

He is very proud of it,see the superb condition,which is hardly be seen on the road today.

2.0 18R heart,now hunting for 1JZ-GTE..may be! He told me this engine few months back.

Latest news.......
ooops....can you believe this,from Toyota to Nissan...oh no!Hafiz,where is the original brand which already become people choice around the world?We have plenty of toyota's RWD such as 1GGTE,1JZGTE,3SGE(from Altezza) and for those more extreme can go for 2JGTE(3.0),1UZFE(4.0 V8) or 3UZFE(4.3 V8).

I think, he is attracted at the SS wastepipe that comes with the front cut from Japan,or is it the Nissan the 4 pot brakes?

The transplant job is in early stage.

How long it will take huh?
It is ok,Hafiz,I hope you will not regret with your choice,I also using Nissan engine in one of my car project but till now, I keep on receiving comment from around the world "why you opted for different motor,while you wanna restore an antique car?"

PS Fuel Enhancer Test on Ah Boy's Corona

2006-05-10T01:34:00.000+08:00

This car is a TT132 ,1980 Corona 1.8cc with rear wheel drive.By having this RWD configuration,my friend Ah Boy has the chance to put in straight 6 cylinder into the engine bay,he choosed a manual version of 1JZ-GTE from Toyota Mark11 .For the power delivery,he has fitted a Nissan LSD taken from R32 GTR.With this setup, he managed to clock mid 14s at Sepang Drag 3 years ago.

CAR: Toyota Corona 1980
Engine: Toyota 1JZ-GTE Single Turbo
Brakes: Front 4 pot Nissan Skyline
Rear 2 pot Nissan Skyline
Gearbox: Toyota Mark 11 5 Speed Manual
LSD from Nissan Skyline
Dashboard: Toyota TT132,TRD meter 320km/h max
Power: 280hp(He is aiming 400hp first for stock internal)

He really want to explore his engine's real power,that is why he has upgraded to Garrett single turbo with HKS wastegate.He admitted that there is an increase in power output but for having boost 0.8,he is thinking that the real hp of this engine not even half of its potential.Remember that the stock power is 280hp@0.7bar .He wanted to increase its boost to 1.2 but scared of lean condition which may cause of blown engine.He then source for bigger injector and found 2JZ-GTE injectors from Toyota Supra.New injector is rated 550cc/pc compare to 430cc for the stock 1jz-gte. We might think that he will solve the problem and the car is ready for at least 1.2 bar of boost. As soon as he received the new 550cc injector,he quickly installed it and crank the engine,it sound normal on idling but when he reved for rides,he felt that the car is 'LAZY'.It means a lot of fuel going in into the combustion chamber and fuel consumption also rised.WOW! this is not GOOD. I then suggested a PS Fuel enhancer II to fine tune of his new setup.

Suggested 1JZ-GTE UPGRADE POWER for 400hp++

1.PS digital Turbo booster (to raise your boost,more boost means more power)

2.PS Boost Cut Eliminator.(To avoid boost cut and fault code to appear when over boosting)

3.Need 6pcs 550cc injectors or larger.(to supply more fuel for higher boost)

4.PS Fuel enhancer II(A device that tune your ECU to go along with the new injectors)

For Ah Boy set up as you can see below,on top is Greddy Turbo Timer,in middle is PS Fuel Enhancer II and bottom is HKS Electronic boost Controller.He also using PS boost eliminator due to his stock ECU only allow maximum 1.0bar boost.

The PS Fuel Enhancer II has 5 analog knob for the user to tune your engine as smooth as the original factory setting for your car even though you have change to a higher capacity injector,low/high impedence,bigger MAF or even greater boost. With less knob to play around, we managed to tune up the engine in less than 10 minutes.Amazing! We a good tuner!!!!

Next is to raise the boost to 1st 1.0bar,2nd 1.2 bar and so on until he satisfied.At the moment we have found a crack on his exhaust flange and to be repaired before doing boost up.

After 2 weeks

Ah boy is ready with his repaired and welded manifold.We have tested his car to race with another Corona TT141 stock 1JZGTE,and we are not suprised that he easily beaten the TT141 with only boosted at 1.2bar. Another good test will be at Melaka Drag on 28th April,2006.

FOR ENQUIRY ABOUT PS performance product ,please email me at mylancer@streamyx.com or call 012-8393893(Amir)

2006-04-01T00:23:00.000+08:00

PS FUEL ENHANCER II FOR MY 4TH PROJECT CARI have just received a Enhancer PS Fuel II today on 23rd April 2006. This one is different to Ah Boy's one coz it's spec is for 4cyl petrol engine while Ah Boy's one is for 6cyl petrol engine.Actually, this uncountable value device is dedicated to my 4th project car,a KE70 Toyota Corolla GL, which is projected to receive a heart of Nissan S14 SR20DE.But for testing and in order to be master for this PS Fuel Enhancer II,it's temporary fixed into my LancerSR20DET.Back to my KE70SR20 project,I haven't decide whether to add turbo or not.Well I only start this project after finishing my 3rd project,Toyota Crown2.8 with IJZGTE Auto and after my trip to my kampung on mid May.

I haven't update anything about the Crown1J here, so now here is the spec.
Car:1982 Toyota Crown Super Saloon 2.8
Engine: Stock 1JZ-GTE from JZZ30 Toyota Soarer Auto Horsepower:280hp(estimated)
Rims: 18 inches on rear and 17 inches on front
Interior: Stock Crown with Soarer Dashboard.
Suspension: Stock CrownRide: For family cruising.
Progress: 85% (Will upload more pic. soon)

2006-03-31T01:00:00.000+08:00

MyLancer

CLASSIFIEDS

SSR-FM 16 inches rim 2pc style
2 unit only.
offset -8,
width 8.5inch,
2 tyres semi-slick 70%
PCD 114x5 holes
made in JAPAN
RM2000 only
012-8393893

SR20VVL frontcut for sale @RM5000
0128393893

ALSO Available SR20DET GTIR PULSAR RNN14 HALFCUT @
RM5500.00

4G93T(A) Halfcut converted to manual(Diesel Gbox) + bodypart RM4900.00 *SOLD

Daihatsu Mira Turbo 660(carb) +bodypart RM1000.00

012-8393893

(SOLD) A very cheap VR4 220hp plus wiring at only rm1500.00
This is an sample pic.Currently this engine is taken out and modded for RWD setup.Gearbox is not included. mylancer@streamyx.com

PS Fuel Enhancer for 6cyl car. RM999.00 (SOLD)

Get to know PS product at this link http://www.ps-powersport.com/default.asp
and order product to mylancer@streamyx.com
or call 012-8393893

(SOLD OUT)Used digital air pressure sensor(boost meter) for application up to 10bar! T

wo-color LED display

Fast response time of 2.5 ms

Unique 2-color digital display replaces conventional mechanical gauges.

2 adjustable output based on boost that can trigger VVT,VVL or may be xtra injector.

Condition:Like new.

Call for best price.

Brand NEW Turbo T70 with box http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/showthread.php?t=44158

Made by Turbocharger from USA, WET FLOATING BALL BEARINGS,TWIN ENTRY T3 flange, SHAFT & WHEEL TRIM 64.5mm,COMPRESSOR WHEEL SUPER 70, 60.5mm,TURBINE HOUSING A/R .84 012-8393893

TURBO CONVERSION http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/showthread.php?t=52703 2units available(update 1 sold,1 more left)

Taken from GSR 4G93T,complete manifold,TD04,I/C,I/C hose& hose Clip,Plug and play for NA become Turbo.More power, esp for GTi Wira Pert and Putra,RM900.00,call 012-8393893,Loc Subang

CLASSIFIEDS 2

2006-02-05T06:21:00.000+08:00

Turbocharge your car at RM3000 only.
Features
Any suitable EFi engine
Low boost 0.5bar
No need JPJ things
Increase horsepower
Save petrol(applicable on under boost driving only)
Car going faster like bigger cc
Reliable,no need to change piston.
Call for detail 012-8393893 Amir.

Lancer Lsd Axle Complete For AE86,ke70 (SOLD)http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/showthread.php?t=52741

Lancer LSD complete modded to fit in Toyota AE86,TE70,KE70,TT132,TT141 and etc,Skimmed Big Disk brake, hand brake cable,Perfect condition.Selling rm1200.00,019-6365480,Subang

blitz ecu for s13 sr20det for sale http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/showthread.php?t=51823

Original tuned by Blitz no 62,Has daughterboard inside(double chip),Setting for more aggresive fuel mapping and higher boost(1.2),Use for stock s13 or s14 turbine,loc pj 019-6365480,PRICE to RM900.00

New Activity

2006-02-03T00:17:00.000+08:00

My new activity.....a Rodeo 2.8Turbo Diesel that can carry a lot of things, such as car engines, motorbikes and car parts.

A very good pick-up truck boosted at 0.67 bar measured by a digital boost meter from Keyence. Model AP-30 series digital air pressure sensor with unique 2-color digital display replaces conventional mechanical gauges. Red LED is set for a dangerous boosting.Also has 2 output to trigger any VTEC , VVT or any precaution like ignition cut while overboosted engine. It's size is so tiny but you have to believe that it can hold up to 10 bar! So which car can utilise this kind of pressure, even my friend, Mr. Lo on his R32 CAN 1 only going maximum 2.8 bar with the output of 1200-1400bhp.

While mylancer is sick with its clutch, changing racing clutch to stock in progress.....

Trip to Kuala Rompin

2005-04-09T19:31:00.000+08:00

After everything completed, such as intercooler piping,power steering, air condition,sound system and the wheel alignment, we did a first road test to Kuala Rompin,Pahang, which is located 350km away from Kuala Lumpur.A good place for fishing and BBQ at night. A view in front of the resort, it is a South China Sea with a lot of fish.Go fishing...he..he..

Coconut tree is found everywhere.You can get it FOC too!

Now With DET Engine

2005-01-01T22:53:00.000+08:00

It is an easy conversion from SR20DE to DET.The difference is now I am having a old HKS intercooler and piping.When I first started the engine, the RNN14 turbine has little smoke but not really satisfying.The new task is to look for a good turbine....
On a DET performance,it really impressive and the nismo clutch cover allow me for a 5000rpm launch on first gear.It is easy to drift too!

Help:Buy It Now

2004-11-25T02:06:00.000+08:00

Buy It Now

Help

Buy It Now

When you see the Buy It Now icon next to a listing or see a Buy It Now price listed on an item page, you can get that item right away without waiting for an auction-style listing to end.

To purchase an item with Buy It Now:

Decide whether you're willing to buy the item for the Buy It Now price. Please remember, shipping and handling charges are not included in the Buy It Now price. You may need to contact the seller to determine the total price of the item. If the listing is a Pay Now and Buy It Now item, the seller requires immediate payment, so the shipping cost and other charges will be displayed in the listing description.
Click the Buy It Now button at the bottom of the item page and enter your User ID and password.
You'll see a Buy It Now confirmation message. From there, you can choose among the offered payment methods (PayPal, personal check, money order, and so on).
Pay for the item.
The seller ships it to you.

Tip: If you see an item has both a Buy It Now price and a bid price listed, it means you will need to act quickly! The Buy It Now price is available until the auction price has exceeded a price threshold or until the reserve price has been met.

Note: To qualify to use Buy It Now as a buyer, you must have one of the following:

Have feedback greater than or equal to zero
Have a credit card (or debit card) on file

If you don't qualify when you click the Buy It Now button, you will be asked to do one of the above to qualify. Once you have met one of the above requirements, the listing will end automatically and you will be the winning buyer.

DET package

2004-10-31T23:13:00.000+08:00

See what I have got here! I went shopping for DET package,engine,racing clutch and nismo clutch cover,engine wiring,ECU no 62,extra injector,VR4 and old type HKS intercooler.RM3000++ gone...
What turbine? Remember I still keep the RNN14 turbine,same size with s14 turbine...AR60..powerwise ok..la!

It is done but I found something else

2004-07-21T22:44:00.000+08:00

After almost 1 year, now painted solid orange after transplanting completed. I tell you...I really happy,I managed to overcome 101 problems regarding this LANCERSR20 project.One thing I want to share with you,there will be no 2nd project as dificult like this...he..he..
This is a Pulsar RNN14 SR20DET engine.Bought very cheap from friend.So now what..NA engine is not enough?Of course but I dont have it's ECU and I cannot fix this in RWD way because it was built for FWD.Sucks!!! Get the piston and Con-rod,throw the rest into "besi buruk"(junkyard shop)!

Engine bay

2004-02-01T21:42:00.000+08:00

Yeah! It was in! Now you can see that it has minimum space to put in a battery,intake hoses,air filter radiator,aircond condenser and fans.
I started to regret, why I am doing is very dificult task,not to mention how is the suspension done.But I made it work , yes it works with S13 knuckle,lower arm,steering rack,tie rod end and Integra aftermarket hi-lo spring and absorber but the alignment need seriously tuned. Mostly tyre shop do not accept a modified things, especially 'homemade ones'.So I have no choice,SELFTUNE!! .For this one,just follow what the Malaysian Rally people do with thier rally car while in the jungle.Easy as 1,2,3, take your measuring tape and you are done.

work in progress

2004-01-07T21:05:00.000+08:00

Work in progress,it can be seen clearly that I have just put in the SR20 inside the engine bay.Vesta 16 inches rim also there.Front tyre is 205/50/16 and rear tyre is 225/55/16

Since front S13 suspension is too big for the 'mylancer',I then decided to fix a kayaba hi-lo set from Honda Integra and the Cusco upper pillow mount is placed just nice on Lancer.

Work Started

2004-01-01T01:19:00.000+08:00

Now this is the engine bay of 23 years old car. The wiring also like burnt coz it was kept too long.As usual, taking out thing is relatively simple and fast than fixing it back.
There goes it's gearbox and front suspension.This is to give way to tne new system from Nissan Silvia S13. It will be a nissan suspension and braking system. It will be not the best but at least will renew it from 80s system to 90s. One decade is very significant to an automobile technology.

Selling my Satria

2003-12-30T22:51:00.000+08:00

Taking out 4G93 and fixing back an original engine 4G92 so that easy to sell and also can support 'mylancer project'.

Lucky the 4g93 and the satria were sold separately...very cheap but still okay,now can look for SR20DET....he..he..he

Assignment started

2003-12-01T01:01:00.000+08:00

I begin my work by collecting data on 'How To Do' the conversion.Without Mr. Jai(Klang) , Mr. Ajib(Batu Pahat) ,Ah Boy,Billy,Rosli and Syd(Subang Jaya) this conversion never been acomplished.Internet search also a very good source especially information for the new motor,SR20.

Something like this?

2003-11-11T00:28:00.000+08:00

1.8 Turbo, G62 is still one of the best choice coz it cheaper and easier to install but it's getting old liao

courtesy from Mr. Saravanan

It should be done something like this!Why? Because it can be taken to DRIFT! or Drag??
Also can be used for daily driven car.

Below is a pure Mitsu but it has been upgraded to a newer motor like 4G63.

SOHC Turbo

DOHC Turbo

Nicely done DOHC Turbo

My dream

2003-10-02T22:18:00.000+08:00

This is my dream,i.e. to fix SR20 engine from nissan inside my old Lancer.

OBJECTIVE:

1. To have better and more poweful engine, at least no problem driving about 200km/h.

2. To have better suspension and braking system which adapted from the Nissan s13 body.

3. To have a power steering and steering rack system from s13 which is newer system compare to the Mitsu Lancer.

4. To fix bigger rims and tyre for better look,some people fixed 18 inches rim into a Lancer!

5. To make this old car alive!!

6. To create confusion, why old car perform better then the new ones!!!

7.And it must be a DIY project.(Do It Yourself)

Old Lancer has come

2003-09-01T21:43:00.000+08:00

This is a Mitsubishi Lancer 1.6(M),year 1980.I bought it at RM3500 and it has minimum body rust I ever seen for 23 years old car. Although it was look ugly but interior has complete brown colour door trim and it also has same colour on the dashboard, showing that this model is an imported model direct from Japan.It also has a rear diskbrake but not a LSD ones.
The 1st day I tested drive, it was going very well but after reaching about 110km/h,rear side begin to shake due to faulty rear axle bushing. Long shaft bearing and axle drive shaft bearing also very noisy. To buy all the worn out parts are not cheap,about rm300.00.

Bought a 1st car on 1998

2003-07-23T07:57:00.000+08:00

Proton Satria 1.6(M).This is my first car,it's a locally made by Proton and Mitsubishi.It is very impressive coz easy to drive and park especially for a new driver like me.I hit 190km/h on the speedo on the 1st week I bought it at PLUS higway in Melaka,Malaysia.Lucky no police speed trap around.

I have been using it for daily driving and work purpose until 5 years of age,the original Proton 1.6 SOHC has to be replaced.Here it is,the new heart 4G93 DOHC rated 130hp.For the increase of 35 more horsepower giving me real feel on the accelerator pedal.Now to reach 180km/h is not a problem,very fast indeed.The engine conversion was done with help of my friend in his workshop.We did it in 3 days only coz it was a direct conversion.

New motor for 'mylancer'

2003-05-10T21:46:00.000+08:00

An old carburatted engine,G32B has to go due to it's lack of performance and no room for cheap performance.

A Nissan Silvia halfcut bought from Tilija, Bukit Kemuning.It was quite cheap, you can ask from Mr. Sudirman,Mr. Andy and not forgetting to Mr. Ah On. http://www.tilija.com/
With this SR20 engine, a lot of performance parts available all over the world especially from Japan and USA.